ST1100 maintenance hints

This page has some of the endless maintenance hints which keep appearing on the ST mailing list. These are mainly kept for my own benefit, so I can find something when I finally need it. Putting them on the Web is just a courtesy to my friends, instead of locking them away where neither of us can find them. I have tried to blame the responsible, but some of the stuff may end up as anonymous. At this point I have originated none of it, and don't want to take credit or blame.

Unfortunately a million or so hints got away before I started this...


Other good places for such hints are the various ST1100 FAQ's which exist in the WebWorld.

Original STOC Web Site FAQ

This is the original FAQ set up by Derek Catt, and is still on the STOC site. It has not been updated since 1994.

The newer STOC Web Site FAQ

This is a bit newer FAQ, based on the original one. It is organized with a frames interface, and was supported by Scott Chytil. Its last update was 1996.


  1. Alternator upgrade on pre '96 ST's
  2. Bearing replacement - front wheel
  3. Brake fluid replacement
  4. Carburetor draining procedure (Robert Coats)
  5. Clock lamp replacement
  6. Fan runs with ignition off
  7. H4 headlight fixes
  8. NGK plug codes
  9. Rear drive O-ring problem
  10. Rear drive O-ring part numbers
  11. Rear shock bushing fix
  12. Rear wheel remove & replace
  13. Rear wheel remove & replace #2
  14. Switch: how to add one


Replacing brake fluid with a MityVac

The following is from Harry Graham, STOC #352

I just replaced the brake fluid on my bike using the MityVac.

Here's what you do:

        1)  Put bike on centerstand
        2)  turn handlebars so the brake reservoir is level
        3)  Remove cover of reservoir.
        4)  suck out fluid in reservoir with MityVac.
        5)  fill with and keep full with new fluid (I use DOT 5.1)
        6)  Attach MityVac to bleed nipple on break caliper
            (you're supposed to do one first but I can't remember)
        7)  pump up a vacuum and loosen nipple
        8)  when flow starts to slow tighten nipple
        9)  check reservoir, add as needed
        10) repeat 7 through 9 until fluid in MityVac bottle is clear.
        10a) do other caliper
        11) fill reservoir and replace top.
        12) Do the clutch while you're at it.
        13) Don't forget the back brake, under the right sidecover.

Brake fluid is all about additives,  the additives keep the system 
clean and the seals supple,  change fluid yearly and the brake systems 
last forever (almost)  


H4 Headlights

Everybody with an ST knows that we have been cheated on headlamps! Honda decided to make a special bulb for the ST. It's an H4 bulb, but it's not REALLY an H4. The tabs are just a little different. Different enough a REAL H4 won't fit. And, to top this all off, the Honda lamp costs a fortune, and even worse, it's about the wimpiest halogen bulb in the universe.

So, good ST owners need help on bulbs. What will fit, how to modify H4's to fit, and other tricks. Many of the STOC tricks are here. Also, go check the headlamps section on the parts page. Note that there are several different sections on headlights, each with their own way of buggering up things. Reader beware!!! Don't try this at home, etc., all disclaimers apply...

Cut out the housing with a Dremel tool

Remove the headlight housing from the bike. (Major pain, but you only have to do it once.) Place a new H4 bulb into the housing such that it's 12:00 tang is meshed with the 12:00 slot on the housing. Using a permanent felt tip marker, mark along the sides of the 4:00 and 7:00 tangs of the H4 bulb. Now working carefully with your arm and wrist well supported, use a Dremel tool (or similar) to grind out the material between the scribe marks you just made. Make these cuts only to the same depth as the original slots. work slowly and try the H-4s from time to time and stop when both tangs fit snugly, but not tight. Clean any dust out of the headlight housing with a can or moisture free compressed air available at camera shops, or a very soft bristle artists brush. Reassemble and GO RIDE.

This new set up will fit any H-4 bulb from the 55/60 to the 475/600 aircraft landing lights (entertainment value only! ! ! Do not write asking for sources of this item) and in a pinch, your overpriced OEM bulbs can be put back in until you find the H-4 replacement.

Welcome to the light.

Pete Wells

H4 Modification page

link to headlight replacement help page. This is for a VFR, but looks fine for an ST also:

Picture instructions

fairly complete mod using nails or coat hangers, from Charlie Woods home page

Another one with coat hangers

OK, guys. Those of you with light bulb envy don't really need to Dremel, cut, snip or unsolder/resolder. As inventor of the coathanger wire method, I can say without bias that it's the most elegant solution. Flatten two tiny tabs, bend two of the larger tabs to hold the stiff wire, and slap the damn thing into the STock housing.Page provided by Jeff Knights. It seems the VFRs have the same problem and those guys have discovered the elegance of the wire fix. OK, he uses a nail instead of a coathanger wire, but it's the same principle... Those of you that like this approach should show your appreciation by starting or renewing your subscriptions to the ST1100 NewsMag and by buying me beer in Boise or Missoula next weekend!

Steve Kelley, STOC #77, Publisher and Senior Editor, ST1100 NewsMag
 *** ST1100 NewsMag - We promise nothing, and that's what we deliver! ***
            ***** NOT a WG Norman Publication! *****

Perfectionist's Guide to Headlight Bulb Replacement

Step by step instructions for 1994 or higher US-spec ST1100A. Based on inputs from Grant Norman, Rock Rhoades, Tom Vervaeke, and Steve Kelley of the ST1100 Owners Club

Important mistake not to make that I made: Many of the fasteners are interchangeable. Basically 2 sizes - all the screws and all the bolts. But they are different lengths, head types, and some bolts are countersunk. While I kept everything together in a tray, upon reversing the steps, I ended with countersunk bolts where plain bolts were necessary. Decided a quick trip to the HW store would be easier than disassembly. So keep the fasteners for each step in order and marked.

Tools and supplies needed:

Phillips Screwdriver

Hex tool from Honda toolkit

10mm box or open-end wrench

10mm socket and ratchet

Standard or Needle-nose Pliers

Standard coat hanger

2 new H4 bulbs of preferred wattage

old burnt-out H4 bulb (optional, for practice)

Step 1 -
remove the windscreen - 5 Phillips screws - also remove the nylon and rubber washers. They may not remain stuck to the screen if you don't pull them off now.

Step 2 -
remove top instrument cover panel (the black piece with "HONDA" logo on it - 2 Phillips screws. (Tom's note: To do this slide cover upwards 8mm and then lift towards you. This is important since two of the tabs are hooked and if you lift straight off you will break them. A new panel costs $95.86 - ask me how I know this!) The circular trim clip below the HONDA logo should remain in place with the panel.

Step 3 -
remove the next instrument cover panel - 4 Phillips screws

Step 3A -
remove the 2 Phillips screws from the inside panel (near and behind where the windscreen screws with the triangular holding plates mount).

Step 4 -
Remove the 2 10mm bolts from the fairing cover (exposed when the instrument panel cover is removed in step 3).

Step 5 -
Remove the one 10mm bolt and nut that hold the right and left fairing pieces together.

Step 6 -
Just below the bottom leading edge of the headlight, remove the 2 Phillips screws holding the fairing cowl to the right and left fairing pieces (NOT the screws in the black triangular piece, which stay put).

Step 7 -
Up on top, remove the 2 hex bolts and nuts that hold the top of the headlamp housing. Use 10mm wrench to hold the nuts.

Step 8 -
Pop off both mirror/turn signal housings - let them swing free by the wires and safety cables. Remove both mirrors - 2 10mm bolts each. Remove bulbs from housings and set mirror/housing assemblies aside in a very safe place. Both mirrors must be removed to allow the right and left fairing pieces to have enough free play to release the headlight housing. The mirror bolts actually serve to secure the upper side fairing panels.

Step 9 -
Remove the 4 Phillips screws and release the 2 clip buttons that hold the underside fairing shroud together. The clips release by inserting a flat blade screwdriver between the head and body and twisting apart (gently). The speedo cable runs through a slot in this fairing shroud. It is not necessary to remove the cable - just twist the piece over the front fender and let it hang out of the way. (NOTE - BE CAREFUL HERE - THE PLASTIC IS NOT RE-INFORCED AROUND THE HOLES IN THE RIGHT AND LEFT FAIRING PIECES.)

Step 10 -
Remove the connectors from each of the 2 headlight bulbs. Mine were VERY tight!

Step 11 -
Reach up from the underside and remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the bottom edge of the headlamp housing. These can be seen from the sides, and are best removed with a 10mm socket with short extension.

Step 12 -
Lay 2-3 thick folded bath towels on top of the front mudguard, where the headlight housing will rest after you release it.

Step 13 -
Carefully pull the headlamp assembly out. It has 2 rubber mounts over guide posts on the metal frame bracket. Once free of the guide posts, twist to the right and down to allow the adjusting cable to slip through the fairing pieces. Lay the assembly on the towels.

*** OPTIONAL Step 13a-b - if you want to pull the entire assembly out *** ***

Step 13a -
Remove the one small Phillips screw on the headlight beam height adjustment knob. Remove the knob and spacing washer.

Step 13b -
Remove the nylon hex nut from the headlight beam height adjustment stem. The adjustment cable will now be released so the entire headlamp assembly can be removed. **Note - on the non-ABS model, it may be necessary to remove one additional screw to release the cable mechanism.)

***** end optional steps ****

Step 14 -
Remove the rubber dust boots. Mine were very tight around the bulbs, but went back on real easy! A small amount of vaseline applied will ensure easy removal next time.

Step 15 -
Examine the spring clip assembly, Remove a bulb and compare it to the H4. The top tab on the H4 is narrower, the bottom tabs are in a different place, and one of the H4 tabs will hit the screw that holds the retaining clip in its pivot point. Note also that the forward pointing tangs (just under the bulb) on the stock bulb are wider apart than those on the H4.

If you have an old burnt out H4 to play with, bend the tangs flat, bend the 2 lower tabs back, and insert - do not clip. Note that the H4 pivots freely from side to side, due to the absence of the two tabs. If you clip in place, the H4 will be forced to point sideways.

Step 16 -
Cut a piece of stiff wire (from standard coat hanger - not rubber coated (it will get HOT). Wire should be long enough to extend a half inch or so beyond either side of the H4 bulb housing, longer than the original tabs. On your new bulb (or test bulb, if you like) bend the H4 tabs back far enough to hold the wire firmly in place. Also flatten the forward pointing H4 tangs.

Step 17 -
Insert the "wired" bulb in the socket and clip in place. Note that the clip presses down on one side of the wire quite tightly, but the bulb is flat in place and only great pressure can get it to bend from side to side.

Step 18 -
Re-install boots. They won't go on real neatly around the clip area, as the clip will ride a bit higher due to the wire added. No big deal here.

Step 19 -
Reverse steps 13 to 1 to re-assemble. Go slow and don't force anything. If plastic does not line up, get someone to hold it in place while you get fastener (screw or bolt) started. My right side fairing gave me fits, but I had removed many more fasteners than this in order to install the Fiamm air horns.

Step 20 Optional -
While setup is fresh in your mind, remove and replace one of your new bulbs without taking anything off the bike except the connector and boot. You can see the bulb go in an out of the assembly through the headlight lens. Front wheel should be pointed toward whichever side you are working on.

Conservative estimate of total time for a mechanical novice to perform the above work: 2.5 hours tops. A good wrench could do it all in less than one hour.

Compiled by Steve Kelley - May 25, 1996. Reprinted with permission.

Fan runs with ignition off mod

From: Charlie Woods
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 17:42:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: TECH: Fan Modification

* * * * * * * * * WARNING * * * * * * * * * *
If you're not into cutting into the wiring 
harness, delete NOW. 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
Here in Texas and in traffic, the fan on my '96 Standard cycles on and off....

Occasionally, the fan is still running when I'm ready to turn the bike off and pull the key....

If you're like me and sometimes kill the engine and turn the key back on to let the fan run until it stops..... READ ON

Most of the cars today with electric fans behind the radiator will run after the fan after the engine and key are off. I suppose this is to prevent the now uncirculated water from reaching the boiling point.

Why doesn't the ST (or for that matter) all water cooled bikes with electric fans do the same? Some checking indicates that the fan on the ST draws about 6 amps. So, you'd have to run the fan for 2 hours without the charging circuit working to actually run down the battery....

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
         DELETE NOW
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
I decided to FIX this.... The fan will now run after the key is turned off....

12 volts positive is routed through the key. The ground for the fan is provided by the thermostat. So, it was simple to find unswitched 12 volts positive to connect the fan to.

The procedure is easier than removing the necessary tupperware to get to the wiring harness:

1) Remove the seat
2) Remove the left side cover (the one that covers the battery (kick stand side).
3) Remove the tank shelter
4) Locate the large bundle of wires just below and aft of the air box... hint - its the big one on the side of the bike....
5) Remove 4 or 5 inches of the 'wrapper' to expose all the pretty colored wires.
6) Locate the BIG red 14 guage wire... this is unswitched 12 volts going up to the switch.
7) Locate the Black/Blue 18 guage wire... this is the switched 12 volts going to the fan.
8) Cut the Black/Blue wire.
9) Splice the part of the Blue/Black wire that appears to to to the front of the bike into the BIG red wire.
10) Rewrap the wiring harness....
11) Put all the tupperware back on.
12) You're done.

NOTE: you may wish to review the wiring diagram in the shop manual for your particuler year of ST to verify the wiring colors.

A future issue of this mod may include installing a switch to:

1) Switch back to the original wiring.
2) Switch to the 'on after shut off setting.'
3) Switch the fan on to warm your hands on cold days.


    ____ _____ ___   ____    ___   ___ ____  
   / ___|_   _/ _ \ / ___|  / _ \ / _ \___ \ 
   \___ \ | || | | | |     | | | | | | |__) |
    ___) || || |_| | |___  | |_| | |_| / __/ 
   |____/ |_| \___/ \____|  \___/ \___/_____|
Charlie Woods DoD 1525  HRCA  HRCA  SRC
Home Page:
Email: ICQ UIN 262263

Replacing clock lamp

You can get to the clock bulb by removing the right side mirror cover. Then grab the wires at the base with a pair of long pliers and work the socket out SLOWLY.

Replacement is the same - fit a new lamp, then use pliers to work the socket back in. A 5 minute job.

Adding a switch

From: Robert Coats Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 20:33:14 -0400

If you've ever wanted to add a switch to the ST, but were afraid of drilling holes in the expensive tupperware, here's what worked for me:

I hardwired my garage door opener to my ST, and used a dropping resistor to bring the 13.8 VDC down to 9; that way, I never have to change the battery, and I can mount the opener out of sight. The problem was, where do I mount the remote switch?

There was no good clean spot; it seemed like every location was right in the middle of some expensive tupperware. Then, I spotted that flat plastic panel on the right grip that is in the same location as the horn button on the left grip.

After pulling out the two screws, the case halves came apart, and lo and behold, the flat panel was a separate part! I was able to drill and mount a remote switch, have it right there by the right grip, AND best of all, I need only buy a $4.00 plastic part when I want to return the bike to factory. Now I just right up the driveway, and thumb the button to "open sesame." No more fumbling with remote controls!

BTW, the switch I choose was a simple black momentary that matches the bike's switch case rather nicely. You kinda have to look just to see it. See your Radio Shack for a good selection.

Alternator upgrade for older models


Rear shock bushing fix

Hi All, got SThenia back on the road tonight with a repaired upper shock mount bushing. The following is a detailed account of the repair so If you have no interest, delete now.

As I chronicled in an earlier post I traced the source of excessive vertical free play in the rear wheel travel to a squashed polymer bushing in the upper rear shock mount. Since the part is, incredibly, not available from Honda I was forced to buy either a new $400 rear shock or come up with my own solution. I chose the latter route.

Tim Baughman at Works Performance Products (818)701-1010 was instrumental in helping devise a way around Hondas' oversight even though he could have insisted on selling me a new shock, these are good folks.

The first step is to remove the OEM bushing assembly which consists of an inner and outer metal sleeve between which is sandwiched a polymer isolator. It's this polymer component that wore out on my bike, just cold flowed right out of place. In my case a 17mm socket turned out to be the perfect diameter to tap the bushing assembly out of the shock eyelet.

Once you have the assembly out of the shock eyelet carefully disassemble it as you will need to re-use the larger, outer metal sleeve. I obtained from Tim at Works Performance a .965 X 10 Igus bushing set which consists of an Igus polymer bushing and two metal adapter bushings that adapt the ID of the Igus part down to the mounting bolt size. (Igus is a company that specializes in self lubricating polymer bushings/bearings). This is the same set as used on their ST1100 shock. The cost is $10 plus shipping. The actual O.D. size of the polymer bushing from Works is 7/8" or .875" while the size of the OEM shock eyelet is approximately .95". Unfortunately, works has only the one size polymer bushing as all of their shocks are designed with 7/8" eyelets. They make up the difference with the inner metal collar to adapt to each application. By sheer luck the thickness of the OEM outer sleeve material is approximately 0.040" making its I.D, approximately 0.870", almost perfect, though a bit tight perhaps, to sleeve down the OEM eyelet to accept the Works bushing.

I carefully chamfered the inner edge of the OEM sleeve with a Dremmel tool and tapped the Works busing into it, so far so good. I next chamfered the outer edge of the OEM sleeve now containing the Works polymer bushing and put it in the freezer. While that assembly was cooling I chamfered the inside edges of the OEM upper eyelet slightly. I used a heat gun to expand the diameter of the eyelet and then, working quickly, retrieved the chilled bushing assembly and tapped it into the the eyelet. It was an extremely tight fit but it went in without too much trouble. Whew, wipe sweat off brow. Now I was ready to remount the shock on the bike.

Throw away the OEM polymer bushing, inner sleeve and bushing collar (the thick walled sleeve that slips over the bolt) and use the two machined metal bushing insert/adapters from Works Performance. To reinstall the shock I cut a 2" X 4" piece of lumber into a wedge and by jamming it under the rear tire was able to raise or lower the wheel until alignment of the bolt holes was achieved. Make sure to start the bolts by hand, especially the bottom one that screws into the aluminum rear drive case, torque them down (17 ft/lbs bottom, 36 top) and yur done.

inspection of the assembly revealed that the free play was now banished. After a short 'round the block test ride, the rear felt much more planted, so much so I'm thinking about backing off the spring pre-load one notch. I think I was interpreting the float I was feeling as a lack of damping or excessive softness and trying to compensate for it by bumping up all the settings.

I hope someone finds this helpful.

Jeff Bertrand
Ventura, CA


Wheels, tires, rear drive

O ring problems on rear drive

Bill Pratt's O ring page - lots of big pics

O ring part numbers

From Paul Kolbo ( comes this data. O ring part numbers: 91304-KT8-003 and 91358-MG9-003. Dust cover: 91253-443-762.

Removing & installing rear wheel

From: Robert Coats
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 22:21:16

		-== Removal ==- 

Centerstand the bike.

Remove the four allen-head bolts (your ST tool kit has the correct size allen-head bit and handle) that hold on the rear fender. Remove the rear fender.


    You don't need to remove the fender if the bike is up
    on a stand, and the rear wheel can drop out.

    You can loosen the two left muffler clamp bolts and 
    remove the muffler hanger bolt so you can swing the 
    muffler out of the way of the brake caliper bolt and 
    get at it with a socket instead of an open end wrench.

Locate the rear brake caliper and find the 14mm bolt that holds it to the swingarm. The bolt head is very close to the left side exhaust pipe.

Use a open-ended wrench and loosen the brake caliper bolt. After a dozen turns, it will pull out slightly and the head of the bolt will bump up against the exhaust pipe. The entire caliper will now swing free from the swing arm. (You don't have to fully remove the caliper bolt (in fact, you can't without removing the left exhaust anyway!)

Loosen the axle nut on the right side. A 1/2 drive ratchet, 24mm socket (I think it's 24) and a 6-inch extension for the ratchet makes this go fast.

Loosen the two 10mm pinch bolts on the left side of the swingarm; you don't have to remove them.

Use a suitable rod or ratchet extension and tap the axle out, right to left.

(It may help to put the bike in gear for the next step.) Rock the wheel side to side a bit, then push it to the left and it will disconnect from the differential. Allow the wheel to roll backwards a few inches, and you'll be able to remove the caliper/brake shoes from the rear brake disc.

When you get the wheel free, remove the semi-loose bushing that usually sticks to the left side of the wheel.

If you're taking the wheel to a dealer for new tire installation, remind him the brake is on the LEFT side of the ST1100's rear wheel. Otherwise, the TireMonkey(tm) in the shop will invariably mount your new rubber in the wrong direction.

		--== Installation ==--

Always liberally grease the rear end splines before installation of the wheel.

Don't forget to install the bushing on the left side.

When you insert the axle, make sure it seats flush on the left side before tightening the pinch bolts. Be sure to tighten the pinch bolts BEFORE you try to tighten the axle nut.

Use a torque wrench to tighten the 26 mm axle nut on the right side.

Slightly compress the brake caliper pistion and spread the brake shoes apart a bit; this will make it easier to get back on the brake disc.

removing & installing rear wheel - 2

From: Dave Gardner

I am guessing you mean "what is the procedure for rear wheel
removal/installation. Well, I ain't no Kit or Dale, but here goes:-

1. Place ST on center STand.

2. Remove saddle bags.

3. Remove rear fender. (Kit disagrees with this one)

4. Loosen off pinch bolts for exhaust pipes (located under the bike in
   front of the rear wheel)

5. Remove bolts supporting mufflers (where rear foot pegs are).

6. Rotate mufflers out of the way. 

7. Remove large nut for axle (on the RHS).

8. Loosen off pinch bolt for axle (LHS).

9. Remove rear caliper stopper pin bolt (support caliper with a piece of
   coat hanger wire to prevent it from hanging by hose).

10. Remove axle (you will have to rotate the left muffler back to normal
    position to get axle out).

11. Maneuver (sp ?) caliper out of the way.

12. Gently, but firmly wiggle wheel to the left, and then roll 'er out.

1. The driven flange (referred to as a spider by some) may want to come out
   with the wheel, especially if the damper rubbers are worn. Separate by
   inserting a flat bladed screwdriver thru the slot in the dust guard plate
   and prying apart before rolling out the wheel.

2. Once the wheel is out, remove the driven flange. Clean it up, and
   liberally apply molybdenum disulphide wheel bearing grease to the ring
   gear. Also chech that the thrust washer is lubed.

3. Clean and lube the female side of the ring gear (inside the diff.)

4. ABS/TCS model - use caution re: the pulsar ring and sensor when removing
   the wheel).

Me thinks that is the major points. It was just from memory. Installation
is reversed, except for one point. Tighten the main axle nut BEFORE you
tighten the axle pinch bolt.

If you were asking how to remove the actual tyre, you need a bead breaker,
three tyre levers, two 4x2's for resting the wheel on, a load of sweat, and
a buddy sitting by sucking down coldies for moral support.

NGK spark plug codes


Here is the table of values for NGK spark plug names.

The breakdown is like this: [B] [CPR] [6] [E] [S] - [11]
Six fields.  Some, e.g. the second field, are optional.
Some fields may have multiple letters.

Field one: Thread diameter.
  A = 18mm      B = 14mm      X  C = 10mm        D = 12mm

Field two: Construction.
  C = hex size 5/8"     K = hex size 5/8 with projected tip (ISO)
  M = compact type      P = projected insulator type
  X  R = resistor          SD = surface discharge for rotary engines
  U = semi-surface discharge    Z = inductive suppressor

Field three: Heat Range.
  2 = hot, up to 10 = cold.  There's no 1, I guess. X 8

Field four: Thread reach.
 X E = 19mm      F = tapered seat
  H = 12.7mm (1.5")     L = 11.2mm (7/16")

  If this field is blank, an 18mm diameter plug has 12mm reach,
  and a 14mm plug has a 9.5mm (3/8") reach.

Field Five: Firing end construction. 
  A, B = special design (no details given)
  C = special ground electrode
  G = racing use
  GV = racing use V type
X  H = half thread
  K = 2 ground electrodes for certain Toyotas
  L = half heat range
  LM = compact lawn mower type
  M = 2 ground electrodes for Mazda rotary engine
  N = special ground electrode
  P = platinum tip (premium)
  Q = 4 ground electrodes
  R = delta ground electrode for BMW
  S = standard 2.6mm centre electrode
  T = 3 ground electrodes
  V = fine-wire centre electrode, gold palladium
 X VX = platinum tip (high performance)
  W = tungsten electrode
  X = booster gap
  Y = v-groove centre electrode

Field Six: (after the dash) Wide gap.
  8 = .032"            X 9 = .036"               10 = .040"
 11 = .044"             there is no 12          13 = .050"
 14 = .055"             15 = .060"              20 = .080"

Other notes:
There's more, such as for metal shell plugs, "V-Power" plugs
for North American made cars, and other stuff.  I'm not typing it in.

Some Motorcycle-related comments...

Some bikes use the DR8ES-L plug.  Theres's no indication what the 'L'
means; it does not appear in the symbol chart for field six.

Seeing as I specialize in Honda V4 info...

ST1100 (hey, it's a V4) : CR8EH-9  CR8EhVX-9
VF1100 : DPR8EA-9
VF1000 : DPR8EA-9
VF750, VF700 : DPR8EA-9
VFR750, VFR700 : DPR9EA-9
VF500 : DPR8EA-9
VFR750R (1990) : CR9EH-9
VFR750F (1990) : CR9EH-9
VFR750F (1991-92) : CR8EH-9

Extended-life platinum tip plugs replacing the CR9EH-9 are
available as CR9EHVX-9.

Resistor plugs are used for two reasons --

 1. They cut down electrostatic interference.

 2. They provide a sharper "edge" to the voltage spike, making for
    a stronger, shorter spark. On high RPM motors, this is important.

The projected insulator simply describes the shape of the plug head.
A projected insulator sticks out a little further into the combustion

- --------------

You can reach NGK at  800-855-8151 (?), 714-855-8278

Front wheel bearing replacement

1. Use a needle nose plyers to grab the edge of the grease / dust seals and pull them off, rather than trying to pry them off from underneath as shown in the Haynes manual. I dinged up the wheel by using a screwdriver.

2. When you get the seals off and begin to hammer out the bearings, note that there is more of an edge at one end of the spacer than at the other end. (The spacer fills the gap between the two bearings.) Find this edge by sticking your finger in past the bearing and feeling the bearing / spacer joint. Try to push the end of the spacer towards the wheel rim. Then do the same on the other end. Which ever end gives you the most play, therefore the greater bearing surface to hammer on, that end should be driven out first.

You need to stick something long down through the hub, from the opposite end, and have it catch that edge of the bearing to drive it out. Don't try to use a long screwdriver to catch that little edge - you'll ruin the screwdriver and possibly the spacer as well. I used a long bolt (10-11 inches) for this purpose after ruining a screwdriver on the first end.

A few good taps with the hammer, then rotate around the bearing 90 degrees at a time, until it comes out. Once you get the first bearing out, the spacer will fall out and the bearing on the other end is a cinch, as you'll have almost the entire bearing surface to hammer on. Use a good heavy hammer - I started with a wooden hammer to soften the blows but it wasn't heavy enough to knock the bearings out.

While you're doing all this, you're getting the new bearings ready by putting them in the freezer. The sooner the better.

Once you've got everything out, and cleaned up, you're ready to drive the new bearings in. It will go a little easier if you use a hair dryer to warm up the hub, then take the bearing out of the freezer and drive it home. Even with the frozen bearing and warm hub it's a tight fit. Make sure you hammer only on the outer race of the new bearings (the shiny part at the outer egde). Some guys have used a large socket for this purpose; others have put the old bearing on top of the new one, and used it as a buffer. I did this, then when the new bearing dropped below the outer edge of the hub I finished the job using the afore-mentioned bolt and just made sure it was only contacting the outer race. Tap it in going in circles a little at a time, you can tell when it hits bottom because there isn't any more "give".

Then install the new grease / dust seal. Again I used the old bearing and some light taps of the hammer to make sure it was all the way in.

Repeat on the other end - remember on the speedo drive end, you put the bearing in, then the speedo-drive thingie, then the dust seal. When you re-install the wheel, make sure the two tabs on the speedo drive thingie are at 90 degrees from the plastic tabs in the speedo drive gearbox.

A basic precaution - set the wheel rim on some 2x4's so it's not resting on the brake rotor. This should be obvious but you never know.... :)

Bill Cruise
Last modified: Sat Sep 8 14:30:37 HST