Unfortunately a million or so hints got away before I started this...
I just replaced the brake fluid on my bike using the MityVac. Here's what you do: 1) Put bike on centerstand 2) turn handlebars so the brake reservoir is level 3) Remove cover of reservoir. 4) suck out fluid in reservoir with MityVac. 5) fill with and keep full with new fluid (I use DOT 5.1) 6) Attach MityVac to bleed nipple on break caliper (you're supposed to do one first but I can't remember) 7) pump up a vacuum and loosen nipple 8) when flow starts to slow tighten nipple 9) check reservoir, add as needed 10) repeat 7 through 9 until fluid in MityVac bottle is clear. 10a) do other caliper 11) fill reservoir and replace top. 12) Do the clutch while you're at it. 13) Don't forget the back brake, under the right sidecover. PS Brake fluid is all about additives, the additives keep the system clean and the seals supple, change fluid yearly and the brake systems last forever (almost)
So, good ST owners need help on bulbs. What will fit, how to modify H4's to fit, and other tricks. Many of the STOC tricks are here. Also, go check the headlamps section on the parts page. Note that there are several different sections on headlights, each with their own way of buggering up things. Reader beware!!! Don't try this at home, etc., all disclaimers apply...
This new set up will fit any H-4 bulb from the 55/60 to the 475/600 aircraft landing lights (entertainment value only! ! ! Do not write asking for sources of this item) and in a pinch, your overpriced OEM bulbs can be put back in until you find the H-4 replacement.
Welcome to the light.
Steve Kelley, STOC #77, Publisher and Senior Editor, ST1100 NewsMag *** ST1100 NewsMag - We promise nothing, and that's what we deliver! *** ***** NOT a WG Norman Publication! *****
Important mistake not to make that I made: Many of the fasteners are interchangeable. Basically 2 sizes - all the screws and all the bolts. But they are different lengths, head types, and some bolts are countersunk. While I kept everything together in a tray, upon reversing the steps, I ended with countersunk bolts where plain bolts were necessary. Decided a quick trip to the HW store would be easier than disassembly. So keep the fasteners for each step in order and marked.
Tools and supplies needed:
Hex tool from Honda toolkit
10mm box or open-end wrench
10mm socket and ratchet
Standard or Needle-nose Pliers
Standard coat hanger
2 new H4 bulbs of preferred wattage
old burnt-out H4 bulb (optional, for practice)
*** OPTIONAL Step 13a-b - if you want to pull the entire assembly out *** ***
***** end optional steps ****
If you have an old burnt out H4 to play with, bend the tangs flat, bend the 2 lower tabs back, and insert - do not clip. Note that the H4 pivots freely from side to side, due to the absence of the two tabs. If you clip in place, the H4 will be forced to point sideways.
Compiled by Steve Kelley - May 25, 1996. Reprinted with permission.
* * * * * * * * * WARNING * * * * * * * * * * If you're not into cutting into the wiring harness, delete NOW. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Here in Texas and in traffic, the fan on my '96 Standard cycles on and off....
Occasionally, the fan is still running when I'm ready to turn the bike off and pull the key....
If you're like me and sometimes kill the engine and turn the key back on to let the fan run until it stops..... READ ON
Most of the cars today with electric fans behind the radiator will run after the fan after the engine and key are off. I suppose this is to prevent the now uncirculated water from reaching the boiling point.
Why doesn't the ST (or for that matter) all water cooled bikes with electric fans do the same? Some checking indicates that the fan on the ST draws about 6 amps. So, you'd have to run the fan for 2 hours without the charging circuit working to actually run down the battery....
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * WARNING: IF YOU THINK THIS IS A LAME IDEA DELETE NOW * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *I decided to FIX this.... The fan will now run after the key is turned off....
12 volts positive is routed through the key. The ground for the fan is provided by the thermostat. So, it was simple to find unswitched 12 volts positive to connect the fan to.
The procedure is easier than removing the necessary tupperware to get to the wiring harness:
1) Remove the seat
2) Remove the left side cover (the one that covers the battery (kick stand side).
3) Remove the tank shelter
4) Locate the large bundle of wires just below and aft of the air box... hint - its the big one on the side of the bike....
5) Remove 4 or 5 inches of the 'wrapper' to expose all the pretty colored wires.
6) Locate the BIG red 14 guage wire... this is unswitched 12 volts going up to the switch.
7) Locate the Black/Blue 18 guage wire... this is the switched 12 volts going to the fan.
8) Cut the Black/Blue wire.
9) Splice the part of the Blue/Black wire that appears to to to the front of the bike into the BIG red wire.
10) Rewrap the wiring harness....
11) Put all the tupperware back on.
12) You're done.
NOTE: you may wish to review the wiring diagram in the shop manual for your particuler year of ST to verify the wiring colors.
A future issue of this mod may include installing a switch to:
1) Switch back to the original wiring.
2) Switch to the 'on after shut off setting.'
3) Switch the fan on to warm your hands on cold days.
____ _____ ___ ____ ___ ___ ____ / ___|_ _/ _ \ / ___| / _ \ / _ \___ \ \___ \ | || | | | | | | | | | | |__) | ___) || || |_| | |___ | |_| | |_| / __/ |____/ |_| \___/ \____| \___/ \___/_____| Charlie Woods DoD 1525 HRCA HRCA SRC Home Page: http://rampages.onramp.net/~st1100 Email: email@example.com ICQ UIN 262263 firstname.lastname@example.org
Replacement is the same - fit a new lamp, then use pliers to work the socket back in. A 5 minute job.
If you've ever wanted to add a switch to the ST, but were afraid of drilling holes in the expensive tupperware, here's what worked for me:
I hardwired my garage door opener to my ST, and used a dropping resistor to bring the 13.8 VDC down to 9; that way, I never have to change the battery, and I can mount the opener out of sight. The problem was, where do I mount the remote switch?
There was no good clean spot; it seemed like every location was right in the middle of some expensive tupperware. Then, I spotted that flat plastic panel on the right grip that is in the same location as the horn button on the left grip.
After pulling out the two screws, the case halves came apart, and lo and behold, the flat panel was a separate part! I was able to drill and mount a remote switch, have it right there by the right grip, AND best of all, I need only buy a $4.00 plastic part when I want to return the bike to factory. Now I just right up the driveway, and thumb the button to "open sesame." No more fumbling with remote controls!
BTW, the switch I choose was a simple black momentary that matches the bike's switch case rather nicely. You kinda have to look just to see it. See your Radio Shack for a good selection.
As I chronicled in an earlier post I traced the source of excessive vertical free play in the rear wheel travel to a squashed polymer bushing in the upper rear shock mount. Since the part is, incredibly, not available from Honda I was forced to buy either a new $400 rear shock or come up with my own solution. I chose the latter route.
Tim Baughman at Works Performance Products (818)701-1010 was instrumental in helping devise a way around Hondas' oversight even though he could have insisted on selling me a new shock, these are good folks.
The first step is to remove the OEM bushing assembly which consists of an inner and outer metal sleeve between which is sandwiched a polymer isolator. It's this polymer component that wore out on my bike, just cold flowed right out of place. In my case a 17mm socket turned out to be the perfect diameter to tap the bushing assembly out of the shock eyelet.
Once you have the assembly out of the shock eyelet carefully disassemble it as you will need to re-use the larger, outer metal sleeve. I obtained from Tim at Works Performance a .965 X 10 Igus bushing set which consists of an Igus polymer bushing and two metal adapter bushings that adapt the ID of the Igus part down to the mounting bolt size. (Igus is a company that specializes in self lubricating polymer bushings/bearings). This is the same set as used on their ST1100 shock. The cost is $10 plus shipping. The actual O.D. size of the polymer bushing from Works is 7/8" or .875" while the size of the OEM shock eyelet is approximately .95". Unfortunately, works has only the one size polymer bushing as all of their shocks are designed with 7/8" eyelets. They make up the difference with the inner metal collar to adapt to each application. By sheer luck the thickness of the OEM outer sleeve material is approximately 0.040" making its I.D, approximately 0.870", almost perfect, though a bit tight perhaps, to sleeve down the OEM eyelet to accept the Works bushing.
I carefully chamfered the inner edge of the OEM sleeve with a Dremmel tool and tapped the Works busing into it, so far so good. I next chamfered the outer edge of the OEM sleeve now containing the Works polymer bushing and put it in the freezer. While that assembly was cooling I chamfered the inside edges of the OEM upper eyelet slightly. I used a heat gun to expand the diameter of the eyelet and then, working quickly, retrieved the chilled bushing assembly and tapped it into the the eyelet. It was an extremely tight fit but it went in without too much trouble. Whew, wipe sweat off brow. Now I was ready to remount the shock on the bike.
Throw away the OEM polymer bushing, inner sleeve and bushing collar (the thick walled sleeve that slips over the bolt) and use the two machined metal bushing insert/adapters from Works Performance. To reinstall the shock I cut a 2" X 4" piece of lumber into a wedge and by jamming it under the rear tire was able to raise or lower the wheel until alignment of the bolt holes was achieved. Make sure to start the bolts by hand, especially the bottom one that screws into the aluminum rear drive case, torque them down (17 ft/lbs bottom, 36 top) and yur done.
inspection of the assembly revealed that the free play was now banished. After a short 'round the block test ride, the rear felt much more planted, so much so I'm thinking about backing off the spring pre-load one notch. I think I was interpreting the float I was feeling as a lack of damping or excessive softness and trying to compensate for it by bumping up all the settings.
I hope someone finds this helpful.
Bill Pratt's O ring page - lots of big pics
From Paul Kolbo (email@example.com) comes this data. O ring part numbers: 91304-KT8-003 and 91358-MG9-003. Dust cover: 91253-443-762.
-== Removal ==-
Centerstand the bike.
Remove the four allen-head bolts (your ST tool kit has the correct size allen-head bit and handle) that hold on the rear fender. Remove the rear fender.
You don't need to remove the fender if the bike is up on a stand, and the rear wheel can drop out. You can loosen the two left muffler clamp bolts and remove the muffler hanger bolt so you can swing the muffler out of the way of the brake caliper bolt and get at it with a socket instead of an open end wrench.
Locate the rear brake caliper and find the 14mm bolt that holds it to the swingarm. The bolt head is very close to the left side exhaust pipe.
Use a open-ended wrench and loosen the brake caliper bolt. After a dozen turns, it will pull out slightly and the head of the bolt will bump up against the exhaust pipe. The entire caliper will now swing free from the swing arm. (You don't have to fully remove the caliper bolt (in fact, you can't without removing the left exhaust anyway!)
Loosen the axle nut on the right side. A 1/2 drive ratchet, 24mm socket (I think it's 24) and a 6-inch extension for the ratchet makes this go fast.
Loosen the two 10mm pinch bolts on the left side of the swingarm; you don't have to remove them.
Use a suitable rod or ratchet extension and tap the axle out, right to left.
(It may help to put the bike in gear for the next step.) Rock the wheel side to side a bit, then push it to the left and it will disconnect from the differential. Allow the wheel to roll backwards a few inches, and you'll be able to remove the caliper/brake shoes from the rear brake disc.
When you get the wheel free, remove the semi-loose bushing that usually sticks to the left side of the wheel.
If you're taking the wheel to a dealer for new tire installation, remind him the brake is on the LEFT side of the ST1100's rear wheel. Otherwise, the TireMonkey(tm) in the shop will invariably mount your new rubber in the wrong direction.
--== Installation ==--
Always liberally grease the rear end splines before installation of the wheel.
Don't forget to install the bushing on the left side.
When you insert the axle, make sure it seats flush on the left side before tightening the pinch bolts. Be sure to tighten the pinch bolts BEFORE you try to tighten the axle nut.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the 26 mm axle nut on the right side.
Slightly compress the brake caliper pistion and spread the brake shoes apart a bit; this will make it easier to get back on the brake disc.
1. Use a needle nose plyers to grab the edge of the
grease / dust seals and pull them off, rather than trying
to pry them off from underneath as shown in the Haynes manual.
I dinged up the wheel by using a screwdriver.
2. When you get the seals off and begin to hammer out the
bearings, note that there is more of an edge at one end of
the spacer than at the other end. (The spacer fills the gap
between the two bearings.) Find this edge by sticking
your finger in past the bearing and feeling the bearing / spacer
joint. Try to push the end of the spacer towards the wheel rim.
Then do the same on the other end. Which ever end gives you
the most play, therefore the greater bearing surface to hammer
on, that end should be driven out first.
You need to stick something
long down through the hub, from the opposite end, and
have it catch that edge of the bearing to drive it out.
Don't try to use a long
screwdriver to catch that little edge - you'll ruin the screwdriver
and possibly the spacer as well. I used a long bolt (10-11 inches)
for this purpose after ruining a screwdriver on the first end.
good taps with the hammer, then rotate around the bearing 90 degrees
at a time, until it comes out. Once you get the first bearing out, the
spacer will fall out and the bearing on the other end is a cinch, as
have almost the entire bearing surface to hammer on. Use a good heavy
hammer - I started with a wooden hammer to soften the blows but it wasn't
heavy enough to knock the bearings out.
While you're doing all this, you're getting the new bearings ready by
putting them in the freezer. The sooner the better.
Once you've got everything out, and cleaned up, you're ready to
drive the new bearings in. It will go a little easier if you use a hair
dryer to warm up the hub, then take the bearing out of the freezer
and drive it home. Even with the frozen bearing and warm hub it's
a tight fit. Make sure you hammer only on the outer race of the new
bearings (the shiny part at the outer egde). Some guys have used
a large socket for this purpose; others have put the old bearing on
top of the new one, and used it as a buffer. I did this, then when
the new bearing dropped below the outer edge of the hub I finished
the job using the afore-mentioned bolt and just made sure it was only
contacting the outer race. Tap it in going in circles a little at a time,
you can tell when it hits bottom because there isn't any more "give".
Then install the new grease / dust seal. Again I used the old bearing
and some light taps of the hammer to make sure it was all the way
Repeat on the other end - remember on the speedo drive end, you
put the bearing in, then the speedo-drive thingie, then the dust seal.
When you re-install the wheel, make sure the two tabs on the speedo
drive thingie are at 90 degrees from the plastic tabs in the speedo
A basic precaution - set the wheel rim on some 2x4's so it's not
resting on the brake rotor. This should be obvious but you never
removing & installing rear wheel - 2
I am guessing you mean "what is the procedure for rear wheel
removal/installation. Well, I ain't no Kit or Dale, but here goes:-
1. Place ST on center STand.
2. Remove saddle bags.
3. Remove rear fender. (Kit disagrees with this one)
4. Loosen off pinch bolts for exhaust pipes (located under the bike in
front of the rear wheel)
5. Remove bolts supporting mufflers (where rear foot pegs are).
6. Rotate mufflers out of the way.
7. Remove large nut for axle (on the RHS).
8. Loosen off pinch bolt for axle (LHS).
9. Remove rear caliper stopper pin bolt (support caliper with a piece of
coat hanger wire to prevent it from hanging by hose).
10. Remove axle (you will have to rotate the left muffler back to normal
position to get axle out).
11. Maneuver (sp ?) caliper out of the way.
12. Gently, but firmly wiggle wheel to the left, and then roll 'er out.
1. The driven flange (referred to as a spider by some) may want to come out
with the wheel, especially if the damper rubbers are worn. Separate by
inserting a flat bladed screwdriver thru the slot in the dust guard plate
and prying apart before rolling out the wheel.
2. Once the wheel is out, remove the driven flange. Clean it up, and
liberally apply molybdenum disulphide wheel bearing grease to the ring
gear. Also chech that the thrust washer is lubed.
3. Clean and lube the female side of the ring gear (inside the diff.)
4. ABS/TCS model - use caution re: the pulsar ring and sensor when removing
Me thinks that is the major points. It was just from memory. Installation
is reversed, except for one point. Tighten the main axle nut BEFORE you
tighten the axle pinch bolt.
If you were asking how to remove the actual tyre, you need a bead breaker,
three tyre levers, two 4x2's for resting the wheel on, a load of sweat, and
a buddy sitting by sucking down coldies for moral support.
NGK spark plug codes
NGK SPARK PLUG CODES
Here is the table of values for NGK spark plug names.
The breakdown is like this: [B] [CPR]  [E] [S] - 
Six fields. Some, e.g. the second field, are optional.
Some fields may have multiple letters.
Field one: Thread diameter.
A = 18mm B = 14mm X C = 10mm D = 12mm
Field two: Construction.
C = hex size 5/8" K = hex size 5/8 with projected tip (ISO)
M = compact type P = projected insulator type
X R = resistor SD = surface discharge for rotary engines
U = semi-surface discharge Z = inductive suppressor
Field three: Heat Range.
2 = hot, up to 10 = cold. There's no 1, I guess. X 8
Field four: Thread reach.
X E = 19mm F = tapered seat
H = 12.7mm (1.5") L = 11.2mm (7/16")
If this field is blank, an 18mm diameter plug has 12mm reach,
and a 14mm plug has a 9.5mm (3/8") reach.
Field Five: Firing end construction.
A, B = special design (no details given)
C = special ground electrode
G = racing use
GV = racing use V type
X H = half thread
K = 2 ground electrodes for certain Toyotas
L = half heat range
LM = compact lawn mower type
M = 2 ground electrodes for Mazda rotary engine
N = special ground electrode
P = platinum tip (premium)
Q = 4 ground electrodes
R = delta ground electrode for BMW
S = standard 2.6mm centre electrode
T = 3 ground electrodes
V = fine-wire centre electrode, gold palladium
X VX = platinum tip (high performance)
W = tungsten electrode
X = booster gap
Y = v-groove centre electrode
Field Six: (after the dash) Wide gap.
8 = .032" X 9 = .036" 10 = .040"
11 = .044" there is no 12 13 = .050"
14 = .055" 15 = .060" 20 = .080"
There's more, such as for metal shell plugs, "V-Power" plugs
for North American made cars, and other stuff. I'm not typing it in.
Some Motorcycle-related comments...
Some bikes use the DR8ES-L plug. Theres's no indication what the 'L'
means; it does not appear in the symbol chart for field six.
Seeing as I specialize in Honda V4 info...
ST1100 (hey, it's a V4) : CR8EH-9 CR8EhVX-9
VF1100 : DPR8EA-9
VF1000 : DPR8EA-9
VF750, VF700 : DPR8EA-9
VFR750, VFR700 : DPR9EA-9
VF500 : DPR8EA-9
VFR750R (1990) : CR9EH-9
VFR750F (1990) : CR9EH-9
VFR750F (1991-92) : CR8EH-9
Extended-life platinum tip plugs replacing the CR9EH-9 are
available as CR9EHVX-9.
Resistor plugs are used for two reasons --
1. They cut down electrostatic interference.
2. They provide a sharper "edge" to the voltage spike, making for
a stronger, shorter spark. On high RPM motors, this is important.
The projected insulator simply describes the shape of the plug head.
A projected insulator sticks out a little further into the combustion
You can reach NGK at 800-855-8151 (?), 714-855-8278
Front wheel bearing replacement
Bill Cruise Last modified: Sat Sep 8 14:30:37 HST
1. Use a needle nose plyers to grab the edge of the grease / dust seals and pull them off, rather than trying to pry them off from underneath as shown in the Haynes manual. I dinged up the wheel by using a screwdriver.
2. When you get the seals off and begin to hammer out the bearings, note that there is more of an edge at one end of the spacer than at the other end. (The spacer fills the gap between the two bearings.) Find this edge by sticking your finger in past the bearing and feeling the bearing / spacer joint. Try to push the end of the spacer towards the wheel rim. Then do the same on the other end. Which ever end gives you the most play, therefore the greater bearing surface to hammer on, that end should be driven out first.
You need to stick something long down through the hub, from the opposite end, and have it catch that edge of the bearing to drive it out. Don't try to use a long screwdriver to catch that little edge - you'll ruin the screwdriver and possibly the spacer as well. I used a long bolt (10-11 inches) for this purpose after ruining a screwdriver on the first end.
A few good taps with the hammer, then rotate around the bearing 90 degrees at a time, until it comes out. Once you get the first bearing out, the spacer will fall out and the bearing on the other end is a cinch, as you'll have almost the entire bearing surface to hammer on. Use a good heavy hammer - I started with a wooden hammer to soften the blows but it wasn't heavy enough to knock the bearings out.
While you're doing all this, you're getting the new bearings ready by putting them in the freezer. The sooner the better.
Once you've got everything out, and cleaned up, you're ready to drive the new bearings in. It will go a little easier if you use a hair dryer to warm up the hub, then take the bearing out of the freezer and drive it home. Even with the frozen bearing and warm hub it's a tight fit. Make sure you hammer only on the outer race of the new bearings (the shiny part at the outer egde). Some guys have used a large socket for this purpose; others have put the old bearing on top of the new one, and used it as a buffer. I did this, then when the new bearing dropped below the outer edge of the hub I finished the job using the afore-mentioned bolt and just made sure it was only contacting the outer race. Tap it in going in circles a little at a time, you can tell when it hits bottom because there isn't any more "give".
Then install the new grease / dust seal. Again I used the old bearing and some light taps of the hammer to make sure it was all the way in.
Repeat on the other end - remember on the speedo drive end, you put the bearing in, then the speedo-drive thingie, then the dust seal. When you re-install the wheel, make sure the two tabs on the speedo drive thingie are at 90 degrees from the plastic tabs in the speedo drive gearbox.
A basic precaution - set the wheel rim on some 2x4's so it's not resting on the brake rotor. This should be obvious but you never know.... :)